Buffalo Bill in Barcelona
In 1889, just before Christmas, crowds of curious onlookers waited at the San Betrán Dock at the Harbour to catch a glimpse of a living legend arriving at Barcelona: Buffalo Bill Cody. News of his appearance had appeared in the “La Vanguardia”, next to an advertisement for Gorgot Nerve Pearls, the best remedy for neuralgia, migraine, … In vain, as it happens, because although the cowboys, native Americans, horses, buffalos and the rest of the tour arrived by boat, Bill himself entered the city by train. Making his only stop in Spain during his European tour, Buffalo Bill set up his show on the empty block of the Eixample –still under construction at that time– between Muntaner and Aribau, and Roselló and Córsega. The Wild West Show ran for five weeks.
The native Americans slept in their teepees,the cowboys on bunk-beds in tents and star attraction Annie Oakley had her own dressing-room. Many a time I’ve looked out onto the inside of the square from one of the buildings and wondered about the lives of the 1,200 people who made up Bill’s travelling Wild West Show and how Chief Black Heart, Medicine-man Rocky Bear, warrior Red Shirt, and the other Arrapahoe, Cheyenne and Sioux liked Barcelona. Red Shirt, who met and charmed Princess Alexandra in London, became a spokesman on native American affairs and the most famous “Indian” after Sitting Bull. Another native American became well known as a demon billiard player at the nearby billiard hall. Buffalo Bill himself probably liked it fine as he was comfortably installed at
the Hotel Cuatro Naciones on the Rambla.
Along with his native Americans, cowboys, sharpshooters –including Annie Oakley– Colonel Cody brought 200 horses and several bison with him. The locals were unimpressed with the bison though, finding them dull after the bloody bullfights they saw each week in season. The Wild West Show did quite well under the circumstances; it was winter, the weather was bad, there was a flu epidemic, the tickets weren't cheap. Even so, the Show sold out on the first few days and, after the very bad weather during the Christmas Holidays, tickets sold well during the remaining weeks and sold out on the last day.

After an impressive parade of the entourage, the show was in three parts: The first, which the Vanguardia newspaper considered the most “instructive” consisted in a representation of the American way of life, 1880s style with reproduction of native American hunting scenes, historical reenactments of attacks on stagecoaches and wagon trains, ceremonial dances and customs. The paper was keen to point out that the show was very picturesque and that with a little imagination the spectator could be transported to the plains of the Wild West. The second was an exciting demonstration of horsemanship by both cowboys and native Americans. The third part was a display of sharpshooting in which Cody ‘s particular skill was showcased. By all accounts, the show was great and it's said that many of the classic Western movie scenes are based on the scenarios Cody presented.

The native Americans were proud to take part in the show, mainly because it allowed them the only legal way to participate in cultural practices declared illegal on their reservations. The Omaha Dance and Grass Dance were preserved for posterity in this way. The performers were also free of harassment from missionaries, teachers, agents, humanitarians, and politicians. It was also the only way an “Indian” could make reasonable money and certainly the only chance to escape the reservation’s travel restrictions. Cody was, by all accounts, a fair and generous employer and gave departing performers money, food and clothing.
Buffalo Bill also bought basic craft goods at wholesale prices and sold them to his native American team members at cost. The women made “bead work” moccasins, bags and other finished handcraft goods and sold them to visitors, museums and collectors all over Europe at a good profit.
After five weeks in Barcelona, the show moved on to Italy, leaving two of its members –Charging Crow and Black Hawk– in the Hospital de la Santa Creu with small-pox, though both were able to rejoin the show at the end of February.
Buffalo Bill’s sojourn gave rise to several urban legends: Bill rescued Crazy Horse’s daughter at gunpoint from a brothel on Tibidabo, the “Indians” kidnapped, murdered and devoured two children, many of the native Americans succumbed to the flu, died and were buried in Barcelona; none, in fact, are true.
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